Let's Talk Runway

All the clothing looks the same. But also, what I am loving, adopting, and lusting after.

There is a new creative director at Celine. Schiapparelli delivered once again. Colors are so back.

But, before I dive into looks, a reminder to myself and to you:

We’ve become so far removed from fashion shows, quickly glancing at them on our phones, that we forget the effort and artistry that goes into making them. It’s a performance, and every element is important. The designers see this as their canvas and we’ve become so quick to brush things off because we’re missing the details. You can’t see hand beading and the way it catches the light and the fluidity of silk as the model moves and the impeccable hand stitching on couture garments and the many rounds of lab dips to achieve THAT shade of blue and the 2” of shirt peeking out from below a sweater during your quick scroll on Vogue Runway. There are entire teams behind each look, so even if I personally dislike the end result, I have to give props to the artists (because that is what they are) who bring these pieces to life, to the stylists who make the shows cohesive, and to everyone checking clipboards and locating models to make sure everything is running smoothly. Many have become giant commercialized PR events (I have a lot of thoughts on this), which is why I’m trying to mentally shift my consumption of these shows away from the spectacle to focus on the actual point: the culmination of months of hard, behind-the-scenes work.

Now, with all of that said, I am full of nuance and contradiction. I can appreciate the work and also have some thoughts. So these are my thoughts on just a few looks I saw whist scrolling through the shows (I know I said above to look deeper than the initial scroll. I did that, but I also noticed some things.)

First up:

All the clothes look the same. Celine is the talk of the town (rightfully so), but I saw a lot of overlap between their latest show and a number of other designers. Most noticeably, between Celine and Chloe. Which is weird. One is newly revived boho, and the other is newly revived tailoring, with an emphasis on Philo-era shoulders and tiny waists. With a bit of prep-inspired styling. Both, however, embraced the skinny. (UGH!) Skinny pants, although all of the models were also very thin. Body inclusivity, where at thou? So let’s look at a few side by side comparisons:

On the left: Patou. On the right: Celine. The classic column dress. I love these dresses. But they are verrry similar.

On the left: Sacai. On the right: Jacquemus. White shirting tent-like dresses. Voluminous skirts optional. Sharkbite hem encouraged. It’s summer, so this makes sense.

On the left: Celine. On the right: Sacai. Culottes, they’re officially back. You too can wear monochromatic culotte looks, preferably with a pair of kitten heels and your hands in your pockets. (Not hate, I love both looks.)

On the left: Chloe. On the right: Celine. Balance out your flowy skirt with the bulkiest fur you can find.

On the left: Celine. In the center: Magda Butrym. On the right: Chloe. Bombers are so back, baby. (Also, all I can think when I look at the Celine brooch is Katniss Everdeen, the Mockingjay.) Also, the funnel neck persists. As it should.

On the left: Chloe. On the right: Celine. Cerulean is so back, just in time for the announcement of the sequel to The Devil Wears Prada.

On the left: Chloe. On the right: Celine. Gone are the days of logomania, only to be replaced with graphic tees. Evil doesn’t die, it just reinvents itself. Also note: 90s t-shirt layering. Seth Cohen would be so proud.

On the left: Chloe. On the right: Sacai. Shapes! The Chloe blazer screams 80s. The Sacai sleeves don’t really scream any decade to me, but imagine all the movie snacks you could hide in those sleeves. The barrel perseveres, despite backlash.

On the left: Jacquemus. On the right: Celine. The Jaquemus look is from last Spring/Summer, but you cannot tell me the styling isn’t pretty dang close. Look at those pleated pants and tiny belts.

Now, on to my favorites.

Boxing boots, blue, and stacks.

Cobalt is so back! As a dark-tone color lover, this is huge for me. I don’t need baby blue, I need saturation. Cobalt, klein, cornflower. Not to mention, five shades of blue in one look? Be still my monochromatic heart.

Stacks. I briefly convinced myself that one to two rings is enough. Oh, how wrong I was. I’m breaking the jewelry box back out, and I am covering my hands in jewels. The less visible finger, the better. Mix metals, mix stones, mix vibes. I regret not buying the vintage lapis “K” signet ring I found on eBay last year. The hunt resumes.

Plus, mark my words: horns are the next big necklace trend. Also, v-necks are about to eclipse crew necks. Preferably in saturated tones, styled with a layer underneath. This sweater is absolute perfection in color and fit, and I need a similar option expeditiously.

One of the first posts I ever wrote on my blog (pre-Substack, but I imported it here if you really want to read it) was about the boxing boot revival.

It was a brief and very niche-internet-TikTok focused trend, but I think we’re going mainstream, ladies. Celine sent these boots down the runway, and I’m officially a convert. I still think about these:

Overall, the stying was top tier. Cape cardigans, drop waist trench coats, precarious levels of necklace (careful, you might tip over.) Plus, big bags. We know I love a big bag.

We move on to Schiaparelli. Another big necklace trend I see coming? Shrimp. The articulated fish are out, crustaceans are in. May I propose a number of shrimp so you can make your own version of this necklace?

Shop shrimp here.

If you prefer to stick to the fish, at least get your fish some friends with this necklace.

Now, I know Schiaparelli is known for their dresses. However, I have to spotlight their suits. This tailoring is absolutely impeccable. Bury me in that gray suit. Also, I think this is a pivotal moment for bolero jackets.

But of course I had to mention the gowns. They are stunning. The fabric is flowing. The fit is fitting. The draping is masterful. Bias dresses forever.

And an honorable mention for this Magda Butrym look. Give me a structured shoulder and a hip pad any day. The fabric manipulation is the icing on top of the cake.

And with that, I must get back to my vintage popup prep. Thank you for reading and indulging in my ramblings.

Until next time.